Wednesday 23 September 2009: Rioja a Go Go

We had brekkie. Actually, we had three brekkies as we all went nuts on seeing what was on offer. The sliced boar’s head was nice but was topped by the Mallorcan sausage, and the amazing jamon Iberico. The Serrano and Riojan chorizo were good but overshadowed by the Iberico. Five Spanish cheeses, mostly local, but including the obligatory Queso Manchego. Local honeys and jams, four different types of Spanish bread, freshly cooked tortilla served with mushrooms and amazing Riojan bacon – the best bacon I’ve ever had. Such was the volume of wine we consumed the previous night we elected not to have the Cava that we there in the ice bucket. Pat loved the local almond tart, and the plum bread. I had the best coffee of this holiday.

Having checked out of the hotel we drove via Laguardia to Briones where we visited the Museum of the Culture of Wine. The audio guide was specially programmed to have commentary that bore no relation to the thing we were looking at. Aside from an interesting film on how corks are made the place for a modern waste of space.

Onwards to Haro in the Rioja Alta, where we tasted wine in Vina Tondonia, served by an assured Oxford graduate. The youngest wine we tasted was a reserve from 2000, with the rest being from 1988, 1991. I bought a lovely gran reserve Rioja 1991. Ann got two reserve white wines with excellent toasted buttery and nutty flavours and and long, long finish. Will be great with Manchego.

Heartache followed when we found out that Bodegas Roda was closed. At least that saved me $100 on a basic bottle.

We drove back by a different route, touching the regions of Burgos, and then Castilla & Leon before entering the Basque Country again. The country now full of mountainous pine forest, and villages right on cliff edges. Spectacular stuff.