Thursday 24 September 2009: Bilbao - Guggenheim Museum

Fresh from yet-anther-wine-binge: Faustino I 1996 being matched by some La Mancha Gran Reserva 1996 (very nice and understated), Riscal 2007 from Castilla & Leon, reserve Vina Tondonia white (very good again, particularly with sheep’s milk cheese), we decided to go to Bilbao as a family to go to the Guggenheim.

The two hour drive was easy enough, everyone noting the Spanish propensity to live in unendearing apartment blocks, often in valleys, where smog seemed to collate. The whole route was mountainous as we followed the northern edge of Spain. Bilbao as a city didn’t exactly blow my mind, however, as the visit was fleeting that may be unfair.

My initial reaction to the exterior of the Guggenheim building was muted, probably because it was stylistically similar to the hotel we had in Elceigo: both are designed by Frank Gehry. Me and dad pondered whether the interior of the building would be more interesting than the art it enclosed. Actually, the building is indeed superb, and especially the interior. It constantly evolves to the eye and mind, ever changing, ever beautiful – kind of a potted, modern Venice all in one building. However, the building was dwarfed by one the greatest works of art I have ever seen. An entire 100 meter section – an entire room – is given over to “The Matter of Time” by Richard Serra. An incredible series of massive, modernist, and minimalist steel sculptures. Dizzying, awe inspiring, challenging, sensually consuming, space defying – I was
Enraptured. So was Pat.

My father chuntered pot-shots against modern art.

The video installations in other rooms grabbed me too, just like they did in the Museum of Modern Art in Paris. And similarly the dress circle of first half 20th
Artists evoked my yawns. I suspect that aside from Guernica I could happily do without ever seeing another Picasso – he bores me with his formulaic daubs.
We had too many Euros left in cash, so we simply had to spend them. Two tee-shirts and the obligatory fridge magnet later we slightly lighter in the wallet department, but not enough, so we stopped off at a supermarket and bought a Roda Reserva 2005 and a Campilla Gran Reserva 1995.

That evening we dined in Chez Albert on Biarritz’ waterfront. A platter of seafood including oysters, sea snail, cockles, langoustines, crab and prawn, was followed sole in a champagne sauce. Pat had amazing gambas and my dad ate scallops on a bed of Basque boudin. A good meal, and a fitting end with my family to the end of this part of the holiday.